Few fashion brands have left as profound a mark on global style as Calvin Klein From its minimalist beginnings in the late 1960s to its bold campaigns that stirred both admiration and controversy, Calvin Klein has shaped fashion, advertising, and even cultural conversation. Its name evokes not just garments, but a vision—sleek, sensual, confident, and timeless.
With a legacy spanning over five decades, Calvin Klein is more than just a clothing brand; it’s a reflection of how fashion can express identity, push boundaries, and evolve with society.
Founding Vision: The Birth of Calvin Klein (1968–1972)
The story begins in 1968, when Calvin Richard Klein, a Bronx-born designer and graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology, launched his namesake label in New York City. Partnering with his friend and business manager Barry Schwartz, the duo started with a modest line of coats and dresses that caught the attention of fashion editors and buyers alike.
Early success came when a buyer from Bonwit Teller mistakenly entered Klein’s studio, fell in love with the minimalist designs, and placed a substantial order. This unplanned opportunity marked the brand’s first major break.
Even in the late ’60s, Klein’s aesthetic—clean lines, neutral tones, and effortless tailoring—was a bold statement in a fashion world driven by color, embellishment, and maximalist styles. Calvin Klein’s work introduced the concept of American minimalism before it had a name.
Coty Awards and Industry Respect (1973–1975)
The 1970s were transformative. In 1973, Calvin Klein won the prestigious Coty American Fashion Critics’ Award, becoming the youngest designer to receive it. He didn’t stop there—he went on to win it two more consecutive times, cementing his status as a force in American fashion.
His designs emphasized wearability without compromise, appealing to professional women who wanted to look stylish without excessive flair. His separates—blazers, trousers, and blouses—could be mixed and matched with ease, creating a versatile wardrobe with a modern edge.
Denim Disruption: The Arrival of Designer Jeans (1978–1982)
Perhaps one of the most significant fashion revolutions of the 20th century came when Calvin Klein introduced his line of designer denim in the late 1970s. Until then, jeans were practical workwear or youth attire—not high fashion.
Klein’s tight-fitting jeans, with the now-iconic Calvin Klein logo stitched on the back pocket, transformed denim into a status symbol. The real game-changer came in 1980, when a teenage Brooke Shields, clad in Calvin Klein jeans, famously stated:
“You want to know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.”
The campaign was provocative, suggestive, and controversial. It was also wildly successful. Overnight, Calvin Klein jeans became a cultural phenomenon. They weren’t just pants—they were a declaration of style and confidence.
The Underwear Revolution: Selling Confidence (1982–1990)
In 1982, Calvin Klein entered another market that would redefine the brand—and men’s fashion—forever: underwear. With provocative advertising and clean, athletic cuts, Calvin Klein underwear turned the basics of men’s wardrobes into fashionable, must-have items.
Iconic campaigns featuring Mark Wahlberg (then known as Marky Mark) and later Kate Moss made underwear advertising feel like art. Suddenly, men and women alike wanted to be seen in their Calvins.
More than selling briefs or boxers, Calvin Klein sold an idealized image of youth, sensuality, and physical perfection—a message that resonated across gender lines.
Expanding the Brand: Fragrances and Licensing (1985–1995)
The 1980s and early ’90s marked an ambitious expansion of the Calvin Klein empire. The brand moved beyond apparel into fragrances, homeware, and accessories, using licensing to amplify reach while maintaining brand consistency.
Key Fragrance Milestones:
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Obsession (1985): A deep, sultry scent with an unforgettable advertising campaign featuring a young Moss.
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Eternity (1988): Romantic, clean, and timeless.
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CK One (1994): Perhaps the most revolutionary of all—a unisex fragrance that symbolized gender fluidity long before it became mainstream.
CK One wasn’t just a scent—it was a cultural statement. Its minimalist bottle, black-and-white advertising, and youthful vibe captured the spirit of the ‘90s. It quickly became one of the best-selling fragrances of all time.
Provocation as Strategy: Marketing with a Message
Calvin Klein has never shied away from controversy. The brand’s marketing strategies often challenged norms, sparked debates, and got people talking.
From black-and-white ads of barely-dressed models to boundary-pushing campaigns that blurred the lines between fashion and eroticism, Calvin Klein redefined how clothing and products could be sold: not just through functionality, but through feeling.
Yet for every backlash, there was double the publicity. Calvin Klein mastered the art of turning scandal into strategy—without ever apologizing for the boldness.
The Calvin Klein Lifestyle: From Closet to Home
During the 1990s, Calvin Klein became more than a fashion label—it became a lifestyle brand. Through licensing agreements, the brand moved into:
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Eyewear
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Watches
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Home décor
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Footwear
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Handbags
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Furniture
Each product carried the same DNA: modern design, subtle branding, and elegant utility. Calvin Klein didn’t just want to dress people; he wanted to define how they lived.
The PVH Acquisition: Transition of Power (2002–2004)
By the early 2000s, Calvin Klein Inc. was facing mounting financial pressures. In 2002, the brand was sold to Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation (PVH) for $400 million in cash and future royalties.
Though Calvin Klein New himself stayed on briefly as a consultant, he formally exited in 2004, stepping away from the company that bore his name.
This marked a new chapter. While PVH focused on global expansion and profitability, many wondered whether the brand could maintain its visionary soul without its founder.
New Creative Talent: Italo Zucchelli and Francisco Costa (2005–2015)
Under PVH’s guidance, the Calvin Klein brand was split into tiers:
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Calvin Klein Collection (luxury)
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CK Calvin Klein (contemporary)
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Calvin Klein Jeans & Underwear (mass market)
Designers Italo Zucchelli (menswear) and Francisco Costa (womenswear) led the Collection line for over a decade. Their minimalist approach and sharp tailoring stayed true to Calvin Klein’s roots, earning critical acclaim—even if the Collection remained niche compared to the commercial powerhouse of underwear and denim.
The Raf Simons Experiment: High Art Meets American Fashion (2016–2018)
In 2016, PVH appointed Belgian designer Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer. Known for his cerebral approach, Simons rebranded the high-end line as Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, and infused collections with references to Americana, art, and cinema.
His debut show was praised for its conceptual depth and craftsmanship. He revived buzz around the brand’s high-fashion identity. However, despite critical acclaim, sales didn’t meet expectations, and Simons departed in late 2018.
PVH ultimately closed the luxury division in 2019, shifting focus back to the brand’s core: Jeans, Underwear, and Fragrance.
Digital Evolution: #MyCalvins and Gen Z Appeal (2018–Present)
In the social media age, Calvin Klein pivoted smartly. The #MyCalvins campaign became a viral sensation, featuring diverse stars like:
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Kendall Jenner
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Shawn Mendes
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Justin Bieber
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Billie Eilish
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Jung Kook (BTS)
These campaigns weren’t just glossy—they were relatable. Selfies, behind-the-scenes shots, and unfiltered moments helped humanize the brand while preserving its cool factor.
Calvin Klein now connects with over 100 million followers globally, using TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube to drive both engagement and sales.
Return to High Fashion: Veronica Leoni’s Appointment (2024–2025)
In 2024, PVH announced Veronica Leoni as Calvin Klein’s new creative director. Her credentials—Chloé, Jil Sander, and Céline—promised a refined minimalism aligned with Klein’s core aesthetic.
Her Fall/Winter 2025 debut marked Calvin Klein’s long-awaited return to New York Fashion Week. Reviews praised the collection’s nostalgic yet modern energy, featuring sharp tailoring, structured outerwear, and a bold revival of 1990s silhouettes.
It was a rebirth, not a reboot, designed to restore Calvin Klein’s voice in luxury fashion.
